The worst scope I have ever seen was one that a couple of @bentaz mates were using. I had a look through that thing and it was a blurry fish eyed hazy smokey view. I never did look at the brand or model wish I had of now.
Dont think I would ever buy a scope that did not have adjustable turrets these days. Just being able to re zero easily depending on what load you are using is enough reason for me. I do have a very old scope on the 223 that has the old screw driver adjustable zero. I think I will settle on a bullet and a distance for that rifle.
Just brought myself a Vortex Diamondback tactical scope in first focal plane to have a go with.
All of my others are second focal plane so for the price I thought I would give it a try.
I have two first focal plane scopes that are both in Mils. At first I didnt have a problem with them at all. Still dont really. The main concern I hear from many people is the way the retical changes scale as zoomed. Becoming perhaps a bit cramped on low magnifications. I tend to wind to the highest magnification that the situation will allow so that is not really a concern for me. In fact the scalable retical is the whole point of first focal planes.
The Mil’s is what I am now finding a little harder to keep straight in my head. shooting and getting used to adjusting turrets in 1/8 or 1/4 MOA has become more instinctive At least on the range. When hunting you dont often get a second opportunity to adjust aim or turrets if you miss. But I do like using the hash mark retical in the FFP and thinking ok that is 10 cm out or using the hash marks to gauge the distance between objects at the same distance. I will use a range finder if I want to know the distance trying to use it to work out distance would be a bit to mathematical without a lot of practice.
I have a Vortex Diamondback tactical on my .22 . I think its a good scope probably way too much scope for a .22. The reticle makes it easy to hit coke cans at 150 metres and I have had a go at dialing in drop which was interesting . Good way to spend a day .
Yep it is defiantly way too much for a .22 but I want to try and see how far out I can shoot and still be accurate. would be happy playing out to 300 mts lol.
Try doing a box test with it.
My diamondback isn’t a ‘tactical’ but I did find it wasn’t great at returning to zero after a bit of repeated adjustment for elevation and windage. It would be good to know if Vortex has sorted the issue on the ‘diamond back tactical’ range.
Mine does hold zero very well for a set and forget scope.
sungazer 9d
“The Mil’s is what I am now finding a little harder to keep straight in my head. shooting and getting used to adjusting turrets in 1/8 or 1/4 MOA has become more instinctive At least on the range. When hunting you dont often get a second opportunity to adjust aim or turrets if you miss. But I do like using the hash mark retical in the FFP and thinking ok that is 10 cm out or using the hash marks to gauge the distance between objects at the same distance. I will use a range finder if I want to know the distance trying to use it to work out distance would be a bit to mathematical without a lot of practice.”
Instead of all that farting around and juggling math in your head, before the best antlered deer you’ve ever seen disappears, did you ever consider a Burris Eliminator?
I did and I am glad I never went with one. I got to use a friends and seeing that little dot was really hard.
if I am using say my 308 its no problem use the range finder to get the distance and I know the drops by heart for my gun from 100 yrds to 1000yrds.
If I am using another gun and a new load, I will stick the chrono on get the speed and use JBM then I will pint out a drop and windage chart. Normally I will pick 300-400 yrds as the maximum range and use 20 yrd intervals. I use the Inspect element in firefox to delete information in the table that is not needed. I just want the Bullet type weight and speed and the drop table stick it in my back pocket good to go. I should make a little plastic holder that would fir the but to carry the dope sheet.
Do you mean 1/10 MOA adjustments or 0.025 mil adjustments. My NF comp is in 1/8 MOA and yes the 0.1 mil is a bit big really but smaller is a brain fart.
Well i’m only a hunter and pest shooter ,I have a Swarovski z3 with etched reticle on my 7mag and a ziess on my 22-250 it would be hard to find a difference between either they both have v’good glass so i’d say both are my besties i’d buy either one for a spare scope
@Field_Marshal_Cinque The easiest way to describe it is to setup a target at 50m and zero your scope so that all of the shots hit the middle of the target. Replace that target with a new one and fire 5 shots into the bull.
Then adjust your scope down 10 clicks and right 10 clicks, fire 5 rounds.
Then go up 20 clicks and fire 5 rounds.
Then 20 clicks to the left and fire 5 rounds.
Then go down 20 clicks and fire 5 rounds.
Then go 10 clicks to the right and up 10 clicks and fire 5 rounds. If the scope is good the last 5 rounds should hit in the bull and your zero will be right back to where it was at the start.
This is the basic explanation, watch the below clip for a better one. Starts at 7.00 minutes.
Each time you fire 5 rounds keep aiming at the center.
Finally got out and did a box test with the Vortex Diamondback tactical. Set the target up at 50 metres followed @1Fatman s instructions. Here are the results
There was a orange sticker in the middle of the target but it fell off. 5 shots on each corner and 10 in the middle. Not the best shooting on my part but it seems to go back to zero. I did the test twice and got pretty similar results.
