Yeah that’s what I have , heat charm I think ours is
Yeah I have one of both but the Heat Charm is the real work horse. The fan certainly helps. I have been to a heater shop a couple of times to buy new top baffles and do the walk around looking at new models and the 25 year old still stacks up well. The sales person did try to sell me a more solid cast unit without fan and tried to push that it would put out more heat than the one I had with a fan. I actually believe him the heat charm has like triple skins on it to make it safe from the sides to the touch a lot more heat could be extracted out of it. I was thinking maybe mudbricks or some type of heat sink heat bank material to retain some heat and conduct it out from the sides.
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Maybe you could drill a bunch of holes or cut some slots in the outer shell on the sides to get more heat to radiate out.
I found ours warms the place up pretty good as it is.
It does the job well. But you know when your sitting in front of one at night and the movie is boring, I start thinking how could I make that better. To lots of stuff. Think I found the right wife now though. 
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Lol.
Back to the original post of “how’s everyone going?”
Well after getting wood Saturday and then climbing a hill yesterday my legs are like jelly this morning.
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I have a Nectre Mk2 wood heater. It’s been running constantly for the last 4 days. No fan in it. It’s just ticking along nicely. 6C here this morning, winter is on the way. A month ago it was 46C. It goes from summer to winter at the drop of a hat. The house is a 2 storey split level building. I have a large fan upstairs to push the heat back down. -2C in the Alps this morning. Won’t be to long to see snow on the ground. Might get the .22 and .204 out this arvo, haven’t used them for a while.
Looks just like my heater
Dogs, foxes?
Just checked the accuracy of the .204 in 3 shots, just the same and is good to go. The .22 is just for cheap fun. Set up a couple of bits of paper on a tree at about 80 metres. The .22 has open sights so sprayed them a bit. The .204 is just for dogs.
.204 is below the .30-06, the one with the bipod.
T3 Varmint .204, Meopta Meostar 4-16X44 scope. It a sit and snipe gun, too heavy to lug around all day. Better off just whistling them in.
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Just skipping back to the wood heater topic and my thinking of how to make a better ? When I was in Austria at the home of one of the workers at the company I was visiting her husband made wood heating stoves / I think it also had oven capabilities. It was huge made of bricks I assume or earth it was rectangular and about six feet long about 3 feet wide and maybe 5 ft high. It had a pretty small fire box but apparently the chimney made its way through the structure in some sort of winding way so all the heat was imparted into the bricks. It made me remember a smaller version in an old family home in the 70s in which we had what was called a Heatbank it was electric but filled with from memory things that looked like roofing tiles.
We probably should look to some of the technologies of the colder European countries for their ideas. They have had double glazing and triple glazing and energy efficient homes before it was something we ever thought of.
http://www.masonryheating.com/masonryheaters.html
http://www.kachelofenverband.com/
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Now that you mention it the gas heater in the house I grew up in had tiles like that in it to, it would keep giving off warmth for an hour after you turned it off.
Yep, Europe and the USA, Canada are a lot colder than here. We have a relatively warmer and shorter winter. Double glazing is available but expensive. I don’t have it. Australians tend to spend more money on making their houses cooler in summer without using an aircon. That’s a lot to do with new housing design.
Correct, but inceases the building costs. So its a compimise.
The idea of increasing is often as simple as conductingvthe heatcout to the air.
Yes something I have thought a lot about looking at my heater. Take the sides of it perhaps some steel fins that solid bricks could fit between so the heat is taken outwards and then stored to radiate off without being cooking plate hot. Maybe winding a 1/2 copper pipe around the flue and connecting that to a hydronic heater bar in 1 or two rooms.
The better mouse trap is out there but it may not be as pretty if i made it.
Yes, this would work. A hell ofxa lotcof energy disapears up the average flue. My gas heater is no different. I have often thought you could do that to the pipe that feeds the hot water service, preheating the water.
Maybe if you got creative and zig zaged the flu up to the roof maximizing the surface area in the room to be heated and slowing the gasses.
When I was in Canada I went to one of the early settlers big houses and the flu ran around the top of many rooms horizontal even connecting up more than one stove before going up to the next floor and then ultimately out the roof. I am sure some of these may have failed with not enough draft and would have been hard as hell to clean but 100 or so years later they are still there.
This is like a club of old man discussing model trains, but even worse, heaters! All I can say, is that I hope this ends in Lemonparty and I get to see the photos. lol
Ive seen equipment with what amounts to fins inside (hest is forced to pass over the fins) flues to conduct to the flue pipe. Pipe then has fins on the out side.