Gheyed up the drone while we was at it.
Exactly what I use (also from 3Dfillies). Black and blue I find works the best. Also used translucent, that worked well to, for lids, etc.
Damn it. Stopping talking about cool stuff, now I want one.
I use Polypropylene bed. It releases prints when surface cools.
Printed:
lead screw stabiliser (that one I designed myself, I didnāt like the one on thingiverse).
bed (cable) strain relief.
circuit LCD cover
Then flashed the thing (need to build Arduino programmer for that) to run vanilla Marlin, to enable:
Thermal runaway protection
BLTouch (also bought BLTouch)
Runs via AstroPrint (on RPi) so I donāt have to run around with SD cards. And enables remote control and camera, so I can manage it when I am not at home. OctoPrint will work too and probably a more modular/extensive option, but for me, AstroPrint is perfect.
I have some dampeners, but the printer is in the garage, so havenāt had the need for those. I also have some smoothers, I am yet to pop them in.
Thatās about it for hardware for now. I want to start with PETG, so I will upgrade tube and hot end at some stage, to drive the temp upā¦
Software: S3D (paid). Can use Cura (I think), but I started with S3D and Fusion360, so thatās what I use.
Filament: 3Dfillies, bonus: not far from me, so shave a few bucks off shipping when I pick it up.
I found translucent filament to work well. This is very limited use when I need a transparent lid. Other than that, I use black and blue PLA+. Grey one didnāt do it for me and I it feels (subjective) like a better print with black and blue, when compared to grey.
As for your settings, I need to re-calibrate again, because I chopped the tube and need to recalculate extrusion multiplier.
I print at: 210C
Bed at: 70C for first layer and 60C after that.
My suggestion is to watch all Ender3 (yes, 3) and 5 calibration tutorials by this guy: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbgBDBrwsikmtoLqtpc59Bw
Start with all-in-one, see what works, then extrusion multiplier, then everything else (heat tower, speed, etc.). Just make sure to change one variable at a time.
Iāll share my S3D profiles when I recalibrate the beast.
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Thanks mate, appreciate your time for the info.
I have only used the 3D Fillies filament and the sample with the machine, so just comparing it to other peoples experiences before I order more from them. I printed Temp Tower for the blue and black, the blue was nearly flawless from 230-190 and the black pretty good from about 210 -190.
I did the bed strain relief and the LCD cover, also did the bed stabiliser arms but they cracked like people reported and pulled down on the front of the bed which made levelling difficult without undoing them each time, so undecided on that mod.
Iām using the latest version Cura slicer printing 195c and 60 on the bed seems to be working well on the glass, just washing with hot soapy water every few prints and nothing else and adhesion is solid. Calibrated the extruder E steps, found that it was under extruding a bit.
The Teaching Tech tutorials I have been using and found them the most useful out there, others like CHEP not so much.
My Ender came with the silent mainboard and 2208 drivers as standard, had to double check the numbers on the board, also had silicone sock on the heater block and the extruder has brass inserts in the filament guide, must be a face lift or something before they go to the next model.
Keep the tips and tricks coming guys, and post photos of your prints.
Iād like to try messing around with some 3d printed 12ga slugs.
Could you print a 12 bore rocket body that fit Estes model rocket engines? I could drill out the centre of the wad to allow flash through for ignition of the rocket.
It might not be legal but it would certainly get the rocket off to a good start.
Damn you @juststarting why did you have to remind me of that hobby shop at Flinders St!!!
Because Iām a cunny funt.
Could you print a rocket body? How would the filament cope with being shot out of a shotgun?
Itād melt before it would leave the bore. Unless youāre using specific plastics that I canāt print with, yet.
Hearnās Hobbies, went there many times as a kid.
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I still go there, lol.
This is exactly what I need. You guys might also find it handy. It saves you unscrewing the case feed plates clutch assembly to add/remove washers when you uave one of those cartridges like 7.62x39 that doesnt work with small or large rifle plate but needs two big washers on a large pistol plate instead. Ill bet āArmanovā has many Adidas tracksuits.
Epic timing! I have actually bought one this morning! LOL
Sweet!
Have spent the odd dollar or two on their products lol.
Holly crapsicles, AUD20.56. Thatās why 3D printers are awesome, thatās like what, 20c worth of material at 100% infill. 
Me too, the index bearing cam block and primer stop switch are good
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I bought this headlight restorer kit thingy from AliExpress, and it came with a āacetone vaporiserā.
Basically a 12v heated cup that you boil acetone in, and the vapour comes out of a nozzle attached to the boiling vessel. This vapour is directed by you, the experienced headlight restoration specialist, towards the surface of the polished and restored headlight and it āmeltsā the polycarbonate just enough to seal it and block all the pores to allegedly prevent further yellowing/hazing.
This kit was like $30 delivered and worked well on my hazy beemer headlamps. I was thinking today" hey, this could work on 3D printed partes to give them a glossy smoother finish".
Naturally, I googled and found a multitude of similar items, apparently specifically for 3D printing. Pic related is the vaporiser in question.
Would you/do you use one?
Stahp it! I dont need more stuff and youāre making it clear that I need more stuff!!
Ohhh and here I was thinking this is some sort of female travel urinal aid. Never mind.