What type of muzzle brake

What type of muzzle brake would be effective for hunting on a 7rem mag up till now I’ve never worried about recoil but a horse came down with me many years ago injuring my shoulder now arthritis and old age are playing a part so anyone know of a good brake they have experience with or own , I was thinking of getting a '‘GRIZZLY’ type one to blend in with my barrel I want one that just screws on and is timed without having to get a gunsmith to fit it also not a bulky one .Without the bad shoulder I wouldn’t even consider a brake but anyway if anyone can help thanks the rifle is sako 18-1 thread med/heavy barrel

I don’t know what the stigma is with brakes, it’s like if your not coping the full force of recoil you’re not a real man, they’re a super effective firearm accessory which over all helps the shooter and firearm do the job, as for type, it’s really one of those things you have to buy and play around with, different patterns will disperse the gases in different ways the grizzly ones certainly look the part :ok_hand:

GDB whatever you do steer clear of Chassis Systems, you may very well end up with your money gone and no break.

I have one from Terminator (https://terminatorproducts.co.nz) in NZ, on my Tikka T3 CTR in 308. Absolutely huge difference to recoil reduction. Mine is self installed… Maybe take a look at them. Now in chassis too, but before it was just a synthetic stock.

One thing I did notice when it was in Synthetic stock… The brake would reduce recoil (aka jet the rifle forwards) but cause the magazine latch to disengage. So every time I shot, the mag would pop up. Did some research and it was a common Tikka/brake issue with that model. Bending the magazine catch fixed it, so depending on what magazines style you have (box mag in my case), you may see that issue, but it’s more of a testimonial to how much it reduces recoil :slight_smile:

I think it’s aversion to change and progress attitude, those people are cancer.

…the same people who are confused by anything other than a single shot. I only shoot 3 rounds per year, but let me tell you what you should do lol


Thanks guys for that . JSS I had thought of changing the stock to a chassis but changed my mind if I do change the stock it will be to timber because the stock on the rifle is too sloppy and moves up and down in the fore end when screwed up tight its a factory problem i’ll sought out later so i’ll do the brake first
Juststarting did the terminator require anything special to fit ie machining, lock nut ,crush washer to fit and time ?

Yes I could understand the hype if using then at a range if people were side by side but only me or my mrs go shooting so noise won’t be a problem as I always wear hearing protection when shooting and so does she the brake is for a little more comfort because I doubt i’ll ever give up shooting the 7mag or any other rifle for that matter till they hammer the lid closed for good Cheers

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Not really. It all came together. Lock nut was required, but came with my brake.

I’ll find some photos when I’m home.

Thanks mate they don’t show that on google or not that I can find

Sorry GDB i wasn’t very clear, i was talking about a business called “Chassis Systems”, they do muzzle breaks and other bits and pieces. I was saying don’t use them because they ripped me off and i’ve had to file a dispute with my bank to try get my money back.

You’re right about the range, people hate them lol. But for hunting they’re great for recoil.
As just starting said any quality brake will come with washers & lock nuts.

Yes lol I’ve just found a site for ‘‘Chassis Systems’’ and realised I had it wrong but no harm done and thanks just watched a test with several brands of brake and the terminator comes out well and it will be good if they come with lock nuts as I can put it on myself and yes noise seems to be a big factor but it won’t worry me or the mrs we use ear protection anyway although i’m half deaf anyway but want to keep what hearing is left and a brake should help me some as well so thanks mate

Please excuse my ignorance and thread jacking- but do muzzle brakes increase noise levels for the shooter as well as to the sides?

I wouldn’t have a clue Wombat but I am lead to believe they do but someone that has one could tell you mate

They increase noise for the shooter. Also increases the felt concussive forces to either side of the rifle. Can be very uncomfortable in an indoor environment.
No free lunches.

People pay a lot of money for exfoliation skin care services. I offer them for free. Two at a times. One to the left, the other to the right. Kaboom! Neeeeext.

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Sounds good to me JS brake comes with a side business :grin:

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Tikka T3 CTR

The baseline, my first rifle :smiley: Albeit when I got it, it looked this (notice threaded barrel):

First change was the brake.

This reduced recoil a lot. I can’t really quantify it, more than 223. A lot less than 308.

T3 CTR comes with a threaded barrel, so I fitted it myself, although the first go I got the lock nut the wrong way. Anyway, entire thing took about 30 minutes to do, because I wanted it perfectly levelled (or shall we say timed?). When fitting, I also tapped parts, to avoid scratching, etc.

More brake photos:

Below, notice the locknut.

This is the one I got:

They don’t have prices on the website, but I emailed the guy and from memory it was (I wan’t to say) AUD319 to my door, that was about 4 years ago. I don’t have his email anymore, but it was through the website (https://terminatorproducts.co.nz/contact-us/) at first.

I shopped around and noticed a couple of things.

  1. NZ dude had good reviews and I can vouch for quality and communication, now that I had it for a while and all. I am very happy with it. With brake + chassis + limb saver pad and that 308 with hot loads recoils like a 223 (not over exaggerating). I would say the brake was a major factor, because I know how it felts before and after in factory stock.

  2. There are brakes that are half the price, but none of them were a good fit for me and required a gunsmith to blend everything, which will costs CIRCA $150. And that brings us back to DIY price range. No modifications, tooling, etc. I went with this one, because it’s the same price point and seemed like a better option. So far, so good.

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Thanks JS they look pretty much what I want my barrel is 22mm dia so it’ll probably will have to be a T3 i’ll have to look into it further, the 18-1 thread could be a problem but they do cut them on certain models and I’m not sure they make 7mm clearance exit hole or a 264 has to be opened up to 7mm clearance might check on it tomorrow blending won’t worry me i’ll leave as it is when put on mate thanks for all your info its been tough trying to chase this up as you know i’m a train wreck on finding stuff on here but getting better so thanks

Regarding custom work, I would just message the guy through the website. There’s a pretty big list of available stuff: https://terminatorproducts.co.nz/chamberings

Depends which route you take of course, but worth asking the dude never the less.

Yeah JS I think that would be best way to go and they do look the part i’ll send him an email or even ring him easier for me and have a chat with him they don’t give much away on google do they just enough to confuse the unknowing cheers mate and thanks again