Restoring (fixing) old 22 question

I’m going to start refreshing my munted 1906 ( that I bought around 1985/6? for $100) and somehow never got around to doing.Its going to end up an expert/1890/1906 mix.
Biggest issue is going to be removing the previous owners license number engraving.I’ve set up the bridgeport mill at work with a flycutter, but am still dithering as to removing the surface by skimming it or further engraving to disguise whats there is the best way forward.
Apart from that I’m missing one slide screw. It’s only been 34 or so years, I’ll get to it soon…

Did I not just tell you, @Wombat, I have the screws for you. As in, an actual slide screws, not getting jiggy with it kind of screws.

Well thanks. I’ll swap you for something.

No need, grab it next week…

I’ll bring the ugly thing ( still, and always has shot very well). If it happens.

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It’ll happen. Bring the ugly thing!

@Wombat, you need one slide screw?

Yes, just the one.

rps20190926_001601~2

You’re welcome.

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Hey @juststarting, if you have got a stash of slide screws for a 1906, I would love one. I just bought a 1906 that is missing the right hand slide screw… Hopefully my PTA will come through soon so I can pick it up… :slight_smile:

Sorry, homey, you are one screw too late. That was the left over screw from this set that @Wombat posted.

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Never mind. Maybe next time xxxxx :slight_smile:

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They are supposed to be 10-32 if that helps. Homestead have a screw set in stock for $25 usd.
And that where JS got his - just clicked the link.

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Thanks. When I get it home I’ll pull it apart and give it a damn good clean. No doubt there will be something else I didn’t see in the shop…

If there is give me a yell, I have some spare parts.

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So I picked up the 1906 today. I bought this on impulse as I had been looking for a trombone but this came up first and cheaper… As expected I missed some stuff in my kid in a lolly pop moment. I knew the rear stock had been replaced, a forearm screw was missing and I kind of suspected that the barrel wasn’t original but that was only a gut feeling. Turns out the barrel definitely isn’t original, and unfortunately hasn’t been replaced with a “copy”. It should have two rings holding the magazine tube in place, but this only has one. The rear sight isn’t original either. Whoever replaced the barrel modified the tube to fit, but hasn’t done a great job, I might need to add a bit of jb weld to the dovetail wedge on the magazine ring as it’s not the greatest fit and the outer tube has a slight bend in it and the inner isn’t in fantastic condition. My main question for the brains trust, should the action cycle if the hammer/firing pin hasn’t been released? This video which is pretty comphensive states it shouldn’t unlock… https://youtu.be/lxSgLh4zZMY (at 13:30)…?
@juststarting @wombat @no1mk3

![DSC_7208|690x388] (upload://rv19RPdhdTzXUv08OK9o0SQGKOV.jpeg)

My 1906 locks up and so does my 62a. Sounds like something has been mucked about with

Stolen from another forum after a quick google search- No, that is not normal, your 62 should function exactly like your 1906. With the bolt closed and the hammer cocked or on the half-cock “safety” notch the handle should not be able to move rearward and open the bolt.

The firing pin has a small triangular shaped teat on the left side that protrudes out of the left side of the bolt. When the firing pin is pushed forward by the hammer the teat is pushed forward also which allows the bolt to pivot upward and open. When the firing pin is rearward (when the hammer is not resting on it) the teat locks the bolt down.

First check that the firing pin spring is pushing the firing pin rearward and the firing pin is not “stuck” in the forward position. If it is free then remove the bolt and check the teat on the left side of the firing pin as they do break occasionally.

Mine locks, all pump actions typically lock up on cocked.

@Bent_arrow very cool never the less. Nice to take out and not be shy about using it. Of course I make an assumption that it’s only the first of many :slight_smile: