DMAC knives for sale

They don’t have to be mutually exclusive. images (1) (11)

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Thanks for your interest fella’s , I am currently away from home. I’ll put some photos up when I get home. If you have a particular design in mind, you can send a drawing or details and I can build a blade to suit.

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Sounds good mate. I’m pretty simples really, something in a drop point with a full flat grind about 110mm and not too thick so it’s nice & slicey, oh and a good grippy handle in case i get caught in one of those wet sloppy spots with @JizzFlinger :laughing:. Pretty much something along the lines of the blade of your Tru Blu knife looks the goods for my taste.

A bit of information for those that are interested.
I use carbon steels to make blades, I don’t do stainless, too much extra gear and stuffin’ around to do the heat treatment right. My steels of choice are 1084, 5160 and 80CrV2. These are all tried and tested blade steels that make excellent blades and will last a lifetime if treated right.
I use a range of handle materials including natural timbers, stabilised timber and lately, G10.
I mainly do full tang and through-tang knives, full tang works better on hunter / skinner types, through-tang on heavier Bowie and camp / chopper knives.
I do fully forged and stock removal blades, all of which are fully hand made by me, I don’t use ready made blanks and bung a handle on like some “knifemakers” do.
All sheaths are hand made by me, I prefer to use leather and hand stitching but I am looking into trying my hand at some Kydex ones.
I am confident to offer lifetime warranty on all knives I make.
If you want a full custom knife, the following information helps me create the blade you want.
Steel choice, blade length, grind, handle length, type, ( full tang etc. ), and material, lanyard hole, ( thru-handle, exposed or none).
I can also do a variety of finishes on the handle. Fine, smooth sanded, checkering, random textured, etc.
Naturally, prices reflect the material costs, design and construction, and the level of finish desired.
A basic stock removal build with natural timber handle and a simple finish will be a lot cheaper than a knife that has a hand forged, polished blade, thru-tang with bolster and hilt, stabilised timber with fancy finish.

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danmacRegular

11m

I’m home from my trip, turned out to be a worthwhile exercise as I sold a bunch of knives.
I still have a couple here if anyone is interested, you’ve seen them before, they are now for sale.

“Tacti-cool”, 80CrV2 steel, 5" blade, G10 “camo” scales on full tang. This is a really well balanced knife, sits nice in the hand and has wickedly sharp edges.
It comes with a full grain leather sheath, hand stitched with a keeper that can be spun around for either side carry. ( the knife will fit both ways ). Asking $250 plus postage, no sales to under 18’s. Please check your State regs as to double-edged blades.


Also up for grabs is this slightly too fancy “pig-sticker”. It was made for a local bloke, ( who ordered it after seeing another one that I made ), that pulled out of the deal… :angry:
Hand-forged from 5160, 9" blade with full dagger hollow grinds on 48" platen. Juma handle on full tang with brass guard. Full grain leather sheath, hand stitched, either side carry. Asking $350 plus postage, no u/18’s, check your State regs for double edged blades.

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This is an earlier knife that I made and have been showing around with folks sort of liking it but no takers. It didn’t look right to my eye, so a bit of a rework on the drop point and the handle and it is now a knife that I’m happy with. It’s made from 1084 steel, 2/3 flat grind with a 3mm spine. Full tang construction, Buloke scales with hand cut checkering. The blade is 110mm and the knife is 230mm overall. Comes with a hand sewn leather sheath with integrated belt loop for right hand carry. ( I can do a left side carry if requested ) I usually sell this type of knife for $250, as this is an “un-branded” one, I’m asking $200 + postage.
( P.S. I tested this knife by chopping into an old dead limb off a grey-gum, I deliberately made hard , glancing blows to test how the edge would stand up. I’m happy to report that there was no deformation and after 10 minutes of abuse it still held a shaving edge.)

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Is this something along the lines you like?

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Hey @JSS, I’ve finished that knife. Here’s a couple of pics, hope it’s to your liking.
It’s grippy, feels good in the hand. Just need to put the edge on it and make that back-to-front sheath. :upside_down_face:


Aaand, couple of hours later…

Okay, wrong way round sheath - done, shaving edge - done.

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That looks sweet mate

Thats it, but with a raised tang. Like as if a gorilla wearing gloves was going to use it on a chopping board, he doesn’t want to hit his knuckles on the board if that makes sense.

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Excellent thanks mate, i’ve been away for the weekend & this is a great little pressie to come home to!! Cheers

Oh and to make the backwards sheath properly you need to stand on your head with your hands behind your back & tongue sticking out to the left. Kind of like one of @JizzFlinger Tuesday morning sex positions…but without the gimp suit & ball gag.

We didn’t use gag last time.

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I’m back from harvest, getting my shit together to get back into the workshop. Any chance you could draw the shape you are after and rough measurements for blade and handle?

Here’s what became of the blank I showed earlier.
110mm x 48mm flat grind blade, just over 2mm at the rounded spine.
245mm overall length with black and blue G10 Damascus scales and exposed lanyard hole.
Probably wind up in either a black leather or “carbon fibre” Kydex sheath.

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Beautiful mate.

Yep, nice job mate, much envy.:+1:t2::+1:t2:

I started it for @JizzFlinger but misunderstood how he wanted the handle, I’ll have to forge his design later. Too fucking hot here to work at the forge and anvil this time of year, heat treating is about as much as I can take. This one will be up for grabs when I finish it.

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A couple more to finish off and make sheaths for.


The one on the bottom is my modern version of an 1800’s French “trade knife” common in North America during the opening up of the West. The Indians found them very useful for scalping!

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Excuse me sweety, the preferred pro-nouns for Indigenous American hairdressing apprentices is “Injuns”.

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