Looks ok on paper but to be honest I know sweet FA about long range stuff.
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I know sweet FA about most things 
but at $120 a box i think 300 rums out not to mention the saaaavage recoil or so iām told, if it was a 300wm and about $400 cheaper iād probably get it, but thanks for posting mate, i quite like that spec, comes with an m40-esk bell and carson stock! 26" barrelā¦ pretty much good to go with a good optic
I just put in PTA for an Omark 308 for an F-standard club rifle. Iāll shoot it with OSA ammo until the stock for the 7mm08 is ready to rock and let anyone in the club use it with factory ammo.
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Andā¦ The wife just found the receipt for the permit to acquire so that was a fun little chat! 
Alot of the omarks kicking around with the old boys here too iām still a little wishy washy as to what iāll do and might sit on it for a whil and then make a totally spontanous decision and buy something totally random
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I still think a rebarrel in 6.5 on your Lithgow would come up pretty well. Email Rolf Hey. His details are in the Gunsmiths thread.
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I think the most important step is to really think hard about the intended purpose of the rifle. Really a custom rifle is made for pretty much only one task. At least they are built only for that task in mind to be really good at and any other purpose is a bonus.
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Id like a rifle i can just grab out of the safe and shoot stuff out to 1km, ( which i know requires alot off both me and the right reloads ) and its going to be a few months journey, not something i can just drop boat loads of cash on all at once but at this particular minute iām thinking a remy 700 long action ( every gunshop iāve ever been to stocks heaps of parts for this action ) some long barrel ( requires more research ) a stock i like the old m40-esk stocks but also want a chassis for adjustability so not sure there and a whole other heap of considerations yet to be made other wise i butcher the lithow 
School me in " accuracy " everyone always talks about barrels, what are the differences? Metals? Rifling, fit and finish? Crown? If a barrel is finshed nice say hand lapped does this put less inperfections into the bullet during the firing process resulting in more symetrical bullet deformation resulting in bettet accuracy? So then i would also assume a bullet with a harder jacket may be more/less accurate depending on barrel?
The easiest and most reliable way is to go for a ānameā brand" which are not that much more expensive than the others Krieger, Bartlien, Lilja ect. These are all cut barrels not using a button that gouges out the rifling. Then they are hand lapped. These guys have to make quality barrels as the are being used by Target shooters around the world who would easily call out a bad barrel and out them on the internet.
The Smith who cuts the chamber is also a pretty important part of the process. The amount of time setting up and care in getting that chamber parallel to the bore the right size ect.
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Once you decide on a barrel brand, you need to have the thing properly chambered and fit. As @sungazer, mentioned, concentric chambering is very important. If you have a particular bullet in mind (like a long, heavy jobbie for good BCās), the smith can also cut the lede/throat/whateverāyacallit to optimise seating depth; if you are shooting from a magazine, then your maximum magazine length will dictate optimum seating depth for a given round. Concentricity of bore and chamber is crucial. As is having square, true and positive connection between barrel and action, reciever and bolt, cartridge and bolt face. As for hand lapping, the way i understand it is that it allows for better precision (shot to shot consistency) due to lower fouling rates of a lapped bore and also resulting in lower deformation/degradation of the bullet during internal ballistic phase.
Once all the above is right, you want your bullet and case neck to be concentric to the bore. This is why people get obsessive with loading and use runout gauges on their finished loads. You want your bullet to enter the bore straight and true to minimise longitudinal deformation, leaving the bullet true as it leaves the barrel and spins through the air. This allows gyroscopic forces to keep the bullet stable at long range, rather than having stability degrade due to a deformed and unbalanced projectile.
Then you have the bullet exiting the the barrel and becoming a projectile. This is where a well cut crown comes into it: allowing for even dispersal of gasses and, again, a minimum of deformation of the bullet upon exiting the bore.
Next you have a good, consistent and reliable triggerā¦
Put all this in a stock that suits your ergonomics and bed it well so that the barrelled action behaves predictably and consistently under fire and returns to the same point of battery every shot with out hanging up. There are various ways to do this, from gluing it to the stock, to epoxy bedding or installing a V-block for tubular actions such as the Rem 700, Barnard, et. alā¦
After that, it is all about good ammo (another topic all together), a consistent shooting platform (front and rear support) and good shooting position and techniqueā¦ a perfectly built rifle is pointless if you canāt feed it and shoot it consistently.
Hereās an article about some guys with too much time and money on their hands and what they concluded about building the most accurate rifle:
http://www.angelfire.com/ma3/max357/houston.html
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If you do really want a Budget rifle that is truly target grade then Gwions idea of the Omark and spending the money on a barrel really is the way to go. You are looking at $1000 for a top of the range Bartlien Barrel fitted by a top class smith. It could cost you that much done by a not so good a smith too so get recommendations and go with them.
The Barrel and smith gets you 95% of the way there IMHO. Sure a bad stock is not good but its not that hard to get a good stock. I made mine with a blank from Hatchers once you know what makes a good stock I worked with him to get the blank to the shape I wanted it was new to him. The V block that I glued in certainly helps takes care of all the bedding issues.
There may be other target rifle actions available also such as a RPA quadlock an oldie but goodie step up from Omark some may still go for a bit but also they are older so perhaps someone might have been trying to sell a gun for a long time. One of those need to be in the right place at the right time for either party to get a good deal.
And I can still hook you up with an Omark!
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Iāve been doing alot of researching youtubing and looking on the netā¦ so many options and paths i could go down! The ācustomā paths scares me a bit as i wouldnāt take much for the ā budget ā to really blow out to a few g
So for an idea of what you get for the $.
I built a rifle to replace one of my 7-08ās that I shoot silly-wet with just last year.
Donor rifle for action - $450 ( Model 70 Win, I donāt like Remingtons.)
New stainless Tobler barrel, 1 in 7.5 twist, 6.5 Creedmoor, chambered and fitted, trigger job - $1000
scope mounts - $140
Scope, Leupold VxII 6-18 x 40 with A/O I had already but sent it up to NIOA to get it fitted with target turrets and the duplex changed to a 1/2 minute dot. $360 to get that done. Scope cost me $400. Now itās a $900 scope.
Had intended to fit it into a GRS stock but it would be overweight for silhouette so itās still in original stock.
So total build cost to me was $2350, drive away.
P.S It shoots sub MOA all day long out to the 500m rams.
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Thats for that @danmac ! Now thats kind of what i had in mind, as a budget build, for a complete shooting rifle package thats not bad at all
Thinking about a bergara b14 hmr 
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What calibre are you looking at, the 24 inch 308?
@AusTac just sent this at Cleavers, could be worth a look.
HOWA
1500 BIFROST LONG RANGE
26" THREADED BARREL
GRS BIFROST ADJUSTABLE STOCK
MDT 20 MOA PIC RAIL
TACTICAL BOLT KNOB AVAILABLE IN: 6mm Creedmoor, 6.5 Creedmoor & 308win SPECIAL NEW $1390
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