You could always prove it yourself, a bit risky perhaps but isn’t it just a process of firing an overloaded cartridge - if it survives then its stamped?
Obliviously a long string and some protection etc would be wise. You wouldn’t have the stamp but would have the knowledge…
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The info is out there about the loads used for proof testing
Will get some pics soon Im a bit worried on the outcome. What is the standard chamber length of a modern 12g. I am pretty sure this one is 2 1/2 inch.
2 3/4 Is standard these days but you can still buy 2 1/2" shells, Eley make some and I’m sure others do too.
You could also reload for it.
But seriously is it worth all the trouble, you should probably just let me look after it for you , lol.
This looks like 2 1/2 inch with a barrel marking on the outside and a clean 2 1/2 inch portion of the barrel then it gets a bit rusty looking but there is no ridge or anything it is just all smooth bore so what makes a chamber?
A good local gunsmith will tell you if its OK for modern powder.
Just a suggestion here. And NO guarantees.
- Find a max load for that gun. (21/2" case)
- Load up a cartridge same max load + 1 grain powder
- Take out in field, wrap up in an old blanket (very effective at stopping shrapnel)
- Stake / tie down
- Fire using long string and hiding behind BIG tree. LOL
- Check for damage.
That’s a sexy shotgun. I like hammers.
I can load you up some proof loads?
That would be great mate, and maybe one or two normal loads before blowing the gun up. 
What do you think would happen with a 2 3/4 inch normal 4 shot load?
Still trying to work out a few markings
What is the 8688 that is on all parts even a screw ?
What is the 1302 in the picture below
The 34652 I believe is the serial number?
What is the 11 in this pic?
And just below the ELG marking on the bottom barrel is a P with what looks like a gamma symbol on top of it?
Thanks @GUN-DMC for all your help on this. I have been googling lots as well. Thanks to everyone else as well @no1mk3 where exactly do you mean on the barrel flats?
G’day sungazer,
The barrel flats is that area of flat metal that mates to the action, it is the first pic just above, The marking I asked about is not there, so your gun was made prior to the new proof Law of june 1924 but is marked correctly to the Law of 1897. The gun should be safe to fire with all modern 2 1/2" shells, such as Lyallvale, etc, which I use sometimes in my Damascus barrelled J.O.Mayne and Bonehill hammerguns, but do have a good shottie gunsmith give it the once over. Enjoy, it looks like a nice gun.
Iv’e found Belgian (liege ) guns to have a lot of random stampings on them, but the 1302 thats on all the parts will be an Identifying number that allowed them to know which parts go to what gun, in the factory multiple people could be working on the one gun and at the same time one lock maker / stock fitter or an apprentice whos only job yet is to make screws. these old guns are usually hand crafted, hand fitted etc. and parts will not be completely interchangeable and would need to be identified.
As for the others I’m not sure, the P with the symbol above it looks like a pre 1887 inspectors mark but that doesn’t make sense against the other marks.
I have spent many hours banging my head against the wall trying to make sense of some of the random stampings on guns so I know how you feel right now mate, even more fun is the milsurp rifles converted to single shot shotguns with mixtures of stamps from different countries.
I have another book somewhere just on Belgian shotguns, I’ll dig it out and see if I can find any more info in that for you.
Can you take a pic looking down the chambers, I find it strange that there is not a distinct forcing cone from the chamber to the barrel, but if there is not then it should chamber and shoot 2 3/4 shells. you could also take a casting of the chambers just to be sure?
Having a good look down the barrels is interesting different to what I thought at first glance.
The bore is smooth for the first 3 inches then for 3/4 of an inch it is rough or etched then at 3 3/4 of an inch it becomes a nice smooth bore again hard to photograph but this is not too bad.
Its the 8688 thats on all the parts the 1302 is another random number yet to be decipered
based on that I would say its chambered for 2 3/4 shells.
The 3/4 inch etched part you describe will be the forcing cone. it shouldn’t look etched obviously, that will be from erosion and corrosion, black powder when not cleaned properly will eat at a barrel.
BIG DIRTY SWEARWORD DISCLAIMER… I AM NOT IN ANYWAY A GUNSMITH OR A SHOTGUN EXPERT, I REALLY DON’T KNOW SHIT AND NO-ONE SHOULD TAKE MY WORD FOR ANYTHING, SHOTGUN RELATED OR OTHERWISE
That being said I would probably shoot that gun with modern smokeless 2 3/4" light loads.
I’ll have a look and see what the lightest loads are that I call make up with the powder I have and load you some. I can also load up some 900gn proof loads but I can’t be responsible for what they do to your gun.
I and everyone ever reading this forum even if it is well into the future and we are still alive should heed the disclaimers.
So what is a normal factory load like on the scale of light to hot say 2 shot at 1350 fps and 4 shot at 1350 fps?
Wait to you see its carry bag and the cleaning accessories with it. 
Clearly this shotty is very UN-SAFE. You should throw it my way. Ill see to it that it is disposed of safely. In my safe. 
@sungazer I have just had a sticky beak and I don’t have a suitable powder to to load up any published light rounds for you gun.
I will load up a couple of proof loads now and maybe you should buy a box of factory 24 gram (7/8th oz ) and roughly 1200 f/s shells to shoot out of it, they should be ok.
I have a couple of boxes of 24 gram 1350 f/s packed for you also.
And I have safety glasses and trauma kit. Let’s do it. LOL