A question for you rifle and stock refurbishers , what would be a good hard clear coating for a stock ? the stock on my sako 85 started peeling from new so I’ve decided to redo it but want something that will wear well as i’m fairly hard on work items.
In my book a good penitrive finish is best for timber stocks. Much easier to maintain and repair.
I use a home made blend of beeswax and linseed oil. I’m sure you’ll have other suggestions.
Best so far mate but yes that makes sense thanks mate
The other advantage is that what e n you are bored, just remove the stock and run in another coat of finish while watching something or chatting with the family/her indoors.
Sounds good mate , what’s the ratio blend of wax to oil and I presume the wax would have to be warm ?
I’ll have to look it up a nd get back to you, mate. Also has trips on it.
Also Gwion how would it go , because the stock was originally 2pac clear so they inform me although it came off in big slithers no grip to the stock what so ever
What I did forget to mention was the stock is a laminated one would that make any difference with the oil?
What ‘they’ say regarding timber stock finishing
- 1 coat a day for a week
- 1 coat a week for a month
- 1 coat a month for a year
- 1 coat a year for life
2 parts raw linseed
2 parts natural beeswax
1- 1.5 part spirit of turpentine
Combine in a double boiler: melt wax in linseed first, then add SoT.
Apply sparingly and regularly as a conditioner or liberally to bare timber in multiple coats for a fresh, deep, lustrous finish.
Yeah, I don’t think the oils will penetrate so well on the laminate
I just use Tru-Oil if I need oil.
Thanks guys ,i’ll keep that recipe for my wood stocks I intend to do all of my rifles up eventually so it will come in handy
To get the old lacquer off I have used paint stripper with success. The diggers 4L container the thick gel acid type.
I like the oils and waxes but they are not that hard wearing but easily fixed up. Oils like Danish oil and Tru oil have a small amount of poly urethane in them. Another one that is a bit stonger again is Watsons Poly wipe I think it is called it is an oil with poly urethane in it and it can be wiped on like an oil so it gives a nice even finish.
…and acetone. Just keep in mind that “and acetone” or paint stripper, that has acetone in a lot of cases will dry the wood heaps, be ready to keep going, after it’s stripped. Don’t let it sit for a while in that state.
Thanks sungazer , it wasn’t a problem to get the clear lacquer off I got a blade under it and it lifted like skin on a sunburn, it came off in big slithers like chunks as if it had been painted over sump oil, stock’s nice and clean now, just needs sanding.
Thanks JS I’ve just got to find what i’m going to use then slip into it and finish it as i’ll be receiving the new breech and barrel in a couple of days and want it finished by then.
Tru-oil works well for me
Haymes matte flooring hybrid poly produces a really nice finish, very hard and durable and UV stable. Its also polishable to a high sheen or to a really nice matte. You can really get the timber to pop with this stuff. Tru oil is also a great product and easy to use and pretty much fool proof in it application.