What’s the FOV like at 1km on a 10 power? How much of the target can you see?
I don’t know heaps about this stuff and how magnification equats to FOV etc.
But if 15 power is enough, maybe the PST Gen 2 will be enough.
https://www.zerotech.com.au/trace-advanced/
Buy one of these,
FFP
Mil/Mil
27 mag
Just be prepared for the heavy reticle lines for target shooting with a FFP.
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Fov is naturally wider on lower mag.
If your target shooting though 15 power will be lacking.
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I’m a fixed power fan…these are magic, if you can get one!
Alright I guess it comes down to this:
ZeroTech Trace Adv 4.5-27×50 - $1299
https://www.thebarn.net.au/Products/TR4275F%20ZeroTech%20TRACE%20ADV%2045-27X50%20RMG%20FFP/106429
MeOpta Optika6 4.5-27×50 - $1125, available at local
https://www.wildoutdoors.com.au/meopta-optika6-2-5-15x44-sfp-4c-rd-reticle-pre-order-due-21-10-19-4260.html
Athlon Midas Tac 6-24×50 - $1250 (it says 1299 but I saw it in store for $1250) - also available local
https://www.wildoutdoors.com.au/athlon-midas-tac-6-24-50-aprs2-ffp-mil.html
I’m assuming this is miles ahead of the Argos, which is $800 - not sure if it’s worth linking.
Vortex Viper PST Gen 1 6-24×50 - $1100
https://www.thebarn.net.au/Products/Vortex%20Viper%20PST%20%206-24x50%20FFP%20EBR-1/98193
Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25×55 - $1129
https://www.thebarn.net.au/Products/Vortex%20Strike%20Eagle%205-25x56%20FFP/104709
Alrighty, to the ZeroTech does seem quite good. However if I go the Athlon or MeOpta, I can see it properly before I buy it.
With the Vortex, if I were to go with one, which would be better out of the first gen Viper and newer Strike Eagle? With Vortex, I’m a little put off by all the failures I’ve heard about but then I read great things as well. Also as mentioned, they do have the life time warrenty in the worst case scenario.
Alrighty it looks like it comes down to these 5. I guess I can’t go wrong with any of them. Talk about paralysis by analysis😂
At the end of the day I just want to shoot some paper and build some skills, maybe take some shots at the 500m gong. However when time allows for it and I’ve built foundation, I’d like to try some longer ranges down the track without having to replace whichever scope I go with.
Also, with all the phone apps available these days, does it really matter if I go Mils or MOA? All of these scopes are available in both.
Mils or moa doesn’t really matter.
Moa is a finer adjustment for target shooting.
Mil just makes sense in a metric world.
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Scopes are extremely subjective. There is no BEST scope. Ive looked through and used $8000 scopes , yes very nice, is it 8x better than a $1000 scope, certainly not.
I can comfortably hit steel at 500m with a cheapie Howa running a 4-14 Nikko Stirling Panamax.
All the scopes you have listed are more than adequate. Pick the reticle you like, pick the price point you can afford and just dive in.
Scopes won’t make or break your shooting ability.
Flash scopes are more like Leather seats in a car, not necessary, just nice to have.
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Alrighty sweet, I think all the Scope hype I’ve seen on YouTube is making me think this is more of a be all end all than it actually is.
Maybe I could even go cheaper with the Argos
Target shooting, you need to be able to see the target = fine reticle, adequate magnification and clear glass. Also need to be reliably make corrections so decent mechanisms are also essential.
Sweet,
Also why are Zero stops such a big deal? I’d understand if you wanted to return to a 100m Zero whilst keepibg your eye through the scope, but I can’t imagine any situations where this would be necessary for weekend plinking.
Would the scopes I mentioned/listed be overkill?
Because I found a strike eagle SFP for $550 second hand - but I’m not keen on SFP being virtually locked into one magnification. I can get a brand new FFP diamondback for $730 or an Athlon Argos for $800. I also found a second hand MeOpta Meopro for around $500 but I think it was 15 power.
Anyhow if I go for an $800, I can put more money into a better bipod and protective case etc. and maybe put an order down on a .22 which I want as a secondary.
I just found the Diamondback Tactical for $625 at Cleavers - far cheaper than anywhere else, even the barn.
Is there any reason at all to not get this scope?
It will do just fine. Good price, good mag, good brand. You will be happy with it. More than adequate to hone your shooting skills without any gear penalty.
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These are tough and useable. $1100 is steep unless its new. Heavy too.
I’ve got a DB Tac, but in 4-12 SFP, and for what I paid for it, it’s a good scope. Glass quality is nice, but nothing super extravagant, and the turrets have nice click to them when adjusting.
Haven’t really tried out shooting longer distances, or in low light with it though, so jury is still out on those categories.
I ended up getting an awesome deal on an Athlon Argos Gen 2
Thanks for all the info guys. I’m looking forward to seeing how the scope performs💪
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Meopta - read up about them.
The hardest thing for my peabrain when buying scopes is the reticles.
It shits me when I find a scope I like, that ticks all the boxes, only to find it has an overly busy reticle that really isn’t needed. Sure some peeps like all that fancy pants hold over and ballistic suited stuff but I’m a simple man and I like a simple reticle.
Do I need all those lines and dots?
Correct me if I’m wrong here but for target work why would I need holdover?
For hunting yes but for target??
Really depends , the lines allow you to correct for wind etc without having to fiddle with a nicely zeroed scope. Dialling in is nice if the wind is consistent, but if it’s gusting it can get old having to constantly correct it. Also you may be shooting targets at variable ranges and learning your holdovers can be much more convenient than constantly correcting your scope. I’m a holdover guy.
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OK I see your point Supa
Windage I can understand. It makes sense
But what about bench work. Why do they make scopes with hold over for that. It’s constant isn’t it? Isn’t that the point of bench. Same distance, or if they change then you just click away on the turret to your predetermined adjustment and you know it’s going hit where you want.
Again, correct me if I’m being a dick. I am just a learner and going from my limited experience and readings
If you are sitting at a bench , plinking away at a set distance, going for super groups, you dial your scope in.
You may however decide to set targets at variable ranges, I do, a lot of people do.
I will set a paper target at 50m, 100m and sometimes 200m. I then set up gongs at 200m and 300-400m.
I shoot at little river which has a public 500m gong.
I will zero my rifle to point of aim at usually 100m. At this distance, on paper , I will go for pin point accuracy and tiny groups.
But for no real reason I will switch to gongs at various ranges, use holdovers, judge wind and hit gongs. I just like the sound.
At longer ranges, gong moa is good enough for me.
If I’m going for groups at longer ranges , I will dial the scope in at that range.
A lot of scopes, even expensive ones, can get a bit iffy when you constantly adjust them.
Definitely shortens their life span.
It honestly doesn’t matter in the end. Do it the way you enjoy doing it
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