Well you’re not very clever then, are you?
They look great, great work mate 
Do you take orders?
G’day sungazer,
Annealing brass from new won’t improve it’s potential as very little age hardening will occur between factory annealing and sales. Annealing is an aid to accuracy by maintaining a consistent neck tension and thereby removing another variable, as well as extending case life by reducing neck splitting. In combination with neck sizing and occasional shoulder bumping you can effectively triple, or more, case life, Cheers.
I would never anneal a brand new case. However I did have to bump the shoulder back a few thou on brand new Lapua 308 Palma brass. I ran them all through my chamber before any sizing and found most the bolt fell down on them easily. there was about 20% that has slight resistance and the last 20% that the bolt would have taken some effort to close. I didnt do that, I simply used the competition shell holders that are 10 tho oversize and reduce in 2 thou steps until the bolt fell closed and then resized them all to that dimension. Gave the flash hols a debur from the inside and weight sorted a large batch into boxes of 50.
I think form here on in though I will anneal them every firing and see how that works. It only a game and experimentation is part of the fun of learning what works and what doesn’t. Easier if you can learn from someone that has been there and done that though.
For me it wont be so much about extended life but hopefully an aid to accuracy by maintaining a consistent neck tension.
Have a look at this site
I bet AMP is not happy having the internals of there machine splashed all over the net. For those of us interested in the induction topic and home made machines this really lays a lot of info on the table.
I think you are right, there will be some unhappy people there.
Why? It’s a commercially available product without any expectation of its internals being ‘private’ after the very first sale. Load of rubbish.
Inclined to agree. Anyway, no shooter is going to try and copy someting that complex. Easier ways out there.
I guess they could be like Minelab metal detectors and paint all of the internals the same colour so people don’t know what bits they use like resistors etc.
Well there were letters submitted asking for confidentiality. The things like the frequency although easy to find out by testing if you have the right equipment and most importantly are the coil or ferrite size and shape and the amount of turns of the wire in what shape. They are things that any manufacture would want to keep a trade secret and pattern like they did. They put the ferrite in a molded plastic to try and keep it a little under raps. However there pride has over ruled and they have shown some parts themselves just recently on Facebook.
I may try to replicate that ferrite shape. The ferrite certainly does concentrate the Flux and they have refined it even further if you look at the shape at the ends. Also some parts were shown in the pattern application and some red herrings were throw in the pattern application. It is all becoming much clearer.
I am really happy with the results I am getting so far on the 308 cases. I have just done 300 the other day so quick and easy and so consistent.
@Oldbloke back up a few post to see the pics at what some shooter is getting up to and I am not the first or only one. Its quite easy if you are that way inclined. I expect to see @juststarting knocking one up in the future. He has taken on much harder little projects like the wifi target camera.
…area of knowledge lol I looked at your annealing rig and was comfortable enough to say, yep, out of my league lol
No. …
Probably just gets down to how many rounds you fire. I only shoot a fraction of what you blokes shoot.
A trade of, cost of cases and your time.
Nice setup @sungazer I have a remedy for you regarding the case being held while annealing.
Sorry to raise an old thread.
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Hi @jdjd welcome to the forum. Any ideas are gladly welcomed. Old threads new information not a problem.
Hey @jdjd - defiantly cool to open old threads with new information. In fact encouraged.
Also, jump into the Say hello and introduce yourself :) and say hello to everyone 
So while searching the web on inductive annealing I came across this little gem.
Use a ceramic TIG welding cup.
The #8 ( 13 mm ) is perfect for the 308 family.
There would be a photo here but I cant put them up yet, maybe tommorow when the time limits run down on newbies posts
I have some questions @sungazer about your flux concentrating set up.
Only too happy to pass on any information I can. Also what I may do differently. You could post a link just in text. I have gone with making some inserts out of a Teflon or Derlin rod. They seem to work well.
@sungazer So here is a link to the ceramic cup method, my annealer is in bits at the moment, while I do some upgrades so please excuse the lack of timers and parts!
Like I said I want to try and do the flux concentrator. I like the design used by Fluxeon, with the “Annie” annealer and I have on order from Ali express some litz wire and the C coil. The C coil comes as two halves and has a 4 mm hole through two ends that I assume you can fit a plastic /delrin rod to keep the halves together ? Is that what you did?
I notice that these generally aren’t cooled and it effects the duty cycle to about 50% from what i have read.
I want to use a copper tube wound with the litz wire. So that way the coil may be cooled via a pump such as with the conventional helical coil.
Your flux coil appears to be similar to the fluxeon method as well, how did you achieve the end result?