Reloading bench help needed.

Natural. I don’t get levels of humidity in Melbourne or in the cave in general for it to be a concern.

Overhangs, 405mm on either side. Just how it was built. It’s just shy of 45mm thick top, so it’s not really an issue.

I am actually thinking of bolting wood vide (https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-175mm-wood-working-vice_p6010361 - something like this to it). Usually I use my normal wise, but dedicated wood vice (read: rifle cleaning holder) is probably the go now :slight_smile:

Unless you want to start adding “patina” from the get-go, I’d be sealing the benchtop at least. Oils, cleaning fluids etc. all wind up getting spilt and you’ll end up having various stains and crap sticking to them all over. Also, some gun solvents and oils actually soften timber so can be detrimental to your “hard wood”.:wink:
Being able to wipe down keeps your benchtop clean and free of gritty debris. Also handy when you spill a bunch of powder, you can just sweep it up and whack it back in the can. ( Ask me how I would know that.:roll_eyes:)
I used a tung oil finish that had hardening resins in it on hardwood kitchen benchtops when I reno’d our kitchen. The finish is like wet timber but has proven to be waterproof, very resilliant to marking and easy cleaning. I wouldn’t hesitate to use it on a workbench.

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Hehehe just by looking at the post, I just realised it’s wrong side against the wall. LOL ouch now need to figure out how to swing it around.

That is a really well built bench a real beauty would love one like that. built by a quality tradesman you can see the workmanship in the tenon joints and also backed up / strengthened by the other piece of wood glued / attached to it.

I agree with Danmac although I may go a piece of laminate in the middle working area and oil the rest as I love wood. Yes I am constantly wiping my bench down with Carby cleaner keeping oils off it. Stuff like one shot or any lube on cases that quickly gets on the bench. A quick wipe down and it is spotless as I am also constantly spilling either a few grains or a half a load on the bench, which if clean can be scraped up and put straight back to use
I have found on one of my desks that the Carby cleaner eats at the Laquare so even a nice clear coat of eurothane is not completely resistant to some cleaners.

So, suggestion, @danmac @sungazer - what can I use, to avoid multiple coats and weeks of waiting. What would you suggest for one or two coats?

So what sort of finish are you thinking of. I hope you dont say paint. It will be more like 2 or 3 coats perhaps 4. If you had a spray gun even better.

I would use a poly urethane gloss something like Wattle or Cabbots. But I would really consider getting a piece of Laminate like on kitchen benches for a portion of the bench around the powder thrower press. I am not sure on how they are fixed if they have a self adhesive, use heat or just a contact adhesive. Another option for the non Laminate sections would be oiled something like Tung oil would be good, Danish oil first and then a sealing coat of Poly.

all of them are going to require sanding first and in between coats to get a good finish. the poly will add much more surface strength but keep the Brake cleaner and Carby cleaner away from it. I have been using that stuff a lot as it cleans up the oils just so well and dries fast but Nifty would probably be just as good and wont harm the clear/paint finishes.

Very jealous.

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Lol, I didn’t ask for an essay or if I knew what I was thinking I wouldn’t be asking :stuck_out_tongue:

Probably two coats of shellac and that’s that.
Or
3 coats of Tung oil
Or
2 coats of “1 coat” water based poly
Last one is probably the go.

Danish oil seems to be the best balance.

You could use a floor sealer? You know, like for wooden floorboards. Easy as to put on, dries reasonably quickly, wear resistant…

That’s something I’m considering

This is the stuff I used. It is primarily a floor sealant. I think I did 3 coats with a light sand between coats. 12 hrs between coats. As I said, it’s on my kitchen benchtops, so fairly high use with plates, appliances, cutting boards, etc. getting dragged about on it. 6 years and still going strong, hasn’t lost any of its’ sealing/waterproofing properties, mind you it doesn’t see too many solvents.:wink:
http://www.feast watson.com.au/consumer/products/interior/product-details/1529

What goes on floorboards these days is a polyurethane but it is not the ones that are bought at bunnings and clean up in turps. they clean up in Hydocarbon type stuff. Sometimes they are even two pack jobs. Having gone through this not that long ago myself. I used some on a desk as well pretty good stuff. Still need 3 coats sanding in between the last sand is just a real light skim. When they do it for a floor they use what looks like flywire but made out of stuff more like a pot scrubber.

My oiling experience comes from stocks. 6 - 8 coats, sanding, wet sanding, steel wool, detailed, slow… That’s what I don’t want to do again. Any of this industrial wipe on wipe off, scuff it up do it again is fine by me. Just nothing that involves weeks of waiting time. And nothing I have to go out of my way (i.e. 20 minutes drive) to get.

@danmac - that looks reasonable. Thanks. Will look into Polycure too , thanks @sungazer.

I got all this stuff, sitting in boxes, ready to be fondled and I have no time to do any of it until next Monday. Work, then camping trip/footy camp with my offspring. Bonus: right in the middle of deer country, will try to go for a little (unfortunately unarmed) stalk with him and maybe we’ll get to see a deer :smiley: Hopefully.

FWIW, I have used the stuff that cleans up with turps that you can buy from bunnings, for floorboards in two old (100 yrs) houses and for a feature countertop. Easy to use and gave a great, long lasting and hard wearing finish. I sprayed the counter top but just used the woollen applicator for the floors. I’m sure there would be superior products out there, but I’d be happy to go down that path again…

Fibreglass it…

We have a winner - floor sealer.
This chapter is over.

Can you put the polyurethane onto laminated timber?

Slowly getting there.

Thought I needed a strong mount, but just countersunk one of the bolts. Beautifuuuul.

Is it my old eyes or did you split that beautiful timber top?