Do Not Try This at Home... Browning T-Bolt Trigger "FIX"

So, you may have seen in the 22lr thread that my Browning T-bolt, like all Browning T-bolts, has a trigger that lets down what is otherwise an excellent little rifle. At it’s minimum setting, mine was variable and still what i consider to be heavy at 3.6lb to 4.4lb.
Ever since buying the rifle a few years ago, i have been toying with various ideas to fix the trigger with little luck when it comes to a reliable solution. Recently, i became aware of a reletively new offering from JARD triggers in the US, of a range of replacement triggers for the T-bolt that are adjustable from 12oz, 16oz, or 20oz: all solid steel construction, unlike the factory offering with plastic housing and trigger shoe/lever/actuator thingy bit (see pic below). Only hic-cup is that it will cost around $400 to import after current exchange rates, etc: http://www.jardinc.com/browning-1/.

Well bugger. That’s $400 that could go toward my GRS stock for my 7mm08…

So i contact the ‘Trigger Guy’ (LIST: Australian gunsmiths) because i see he has the t-bolt listed on triggers that he works on. Turns out he needs to update his list because he will no longer work them for various reasons (like, he thinks they are a joke) but primarily because he needs the entire rifle to do it right and he now only deals with triggers that can be properly worked with out the rifle or with stock rifles that he has to hand. He won’t accept any general gunsmithing work or handle any serial numbered parts anymore, so don’t bother asking.

Back to the interwebs…

I found a ‘fix’ on rimfire central that some had claimed worked. Aparantly the spring on some rifles rests on a plastic ledge rather than on the adjusting grub screw, preloading the spring to about 4lb. If you shave that ledge back so that the spring rests on the grub screw, it gives you a crisp 2.5lb trigger; apparantly.

Aparantly…

So I’m thinking, well, i have to spend all that cash on a new trigger so i may as well give this a go; if it works i save money, if not, i was going to spend that cash anyway…

Cut to the chase. I frigged around with getting the fiddly bastard apart and tidied up the area in question. I put it back together and tested it… NO FREAKING CHANGE IN PULL WEIGHT!!!
Still variable and still heavy!

So, well, I’m here now and there was another suggestion of drilling another hole in the sear mechanism thingy to accept the spring, thereby lowering preload further. Nope. My drill press hardly removed more metal than the center punch with a new 1mm bit and i ain’t buying a cobolt bit for this fucking…
Well, maybe the sear surfaces need a little polishing… nope, no change… maybe… maybe…

Yep. I kept messing with it and it kept getting worse, not better until…

Well, i went into it thinking I’ll either fix it or fuck it and, you guessed it… she no work no more!

Today I’m applying for an import permit and ordering a trigger from JARD! :joy::joy::joy::thinking::unamused::unamused::sweat:

At least you gave ita try

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Yeah, that’s what i figure.
I’ll also see if i can order the parts that i buggered and tinker with them again to see if it can actually be fixed; just because…

I really think a huge limiting factor is the plactic trigger actuator. Someone suggested casting a brass one but on closer inspection, the molding is really quite complicated, with parts slotting into it (housed within it) and running trough it.

Here’s another pic I pinched off the interwebs that shows how the spring is loaded onto the “ledge” and not the adjustment screw (see the little brass bit below the spring: that is the grub screw housing).

image

The page this pic comes from talks about bending the spring to reduce pre-load. Also don’t do this at home as it is a “fix” suggested by people who don’t understand that a spring bent after it has been made into a spring is no longer a spring at that bend point; or at least has lost indeterminable amounts of it’s spring properties. Springs are formed and then heat treated to their “spring temper”, not tempered and then formed. A spring should return to it’s predetermined form, ie: “spring back” to shape; if it takes a set (stays bent) it isn’t functioning as a spring in that area anymore.

My new trigger is ordered, shipped and on the way! :grinning::+1:

I’ll fit it and use it to shoot the old one to bits for a bit of satisfaction! :rofl:

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Still waiting but hopefully no long now!!! :wink:

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I too am waiting on a new trigger (and some other parts, like, erm, you know, the rest of the rifle) - I am hopping, not long now.

Still waiting on the paper work for that little 410 SxS hammer gun too! :stuck_out_tongue:

That’s annoying.

So technically, I’m waiting on three triggers and the rest of a gun… :grinning::+1:

You know, I’d buy a gun just to say 4, right! LOL

Yep… bah hahaha…

You’d have to buy another rifle and a double trigger SxS to trump…

Go on… I dare ya… :rofl:

Arrived and fitted. Not tested though…

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Geez I thought that you would have tested it before posting, very disappointed :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes: :rofl:

Hahaha… no time today. Working this evening.

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It took a bit of farting about to get the trigger set up and the rifle installed again. The unit was a bit ‘creepy’ for my taste and i wanted to familiarise myself with the adjustment process, so i spent some time adjusting it and checking and double checking for safe operation. The tang of the new unit sat lower in the stock and made the safety activated bolt release foul on the timber, so i bodged up the bedding with hot glue so it cleared and functioned correctly. At some stage soon i will fine tune the whole thing and get it bedded and the fit/finish looking right but for now it if working and the trigger is a joy to use. Being so light @ 1.5lb, it is going to take some getting used to as i am in the habbit of muscling this rifle a bit. Extra trigger discipline will be a good thing all 'round.

I also fitted a cheap 6x40 fixed scope i had lying around because my faith in the other scope is a bit shaky after recent issues and my mate’s comments (as in, “i think it might be the scope more than your trigger”). A 6xfixed is easier in the field than a variable mag, AO scope anyway…

Sighted in at 25m (stepped) on a “test rest”, then moved back and sighted at 50m (measured) on a dodgy, uncomfortable “field rest”.

Some pics:


You casn see the tang sitting low…


Getting the scope in the ball park…


Some minor adjustments and then shot this at 25m…


Last 10 shots for the session at 50m. I figured the bulk of the group was a bit left so adjusted half inch right and packed up.

Fired 50 rounds all up in testing and sighting.

Pretty pleased but, as i said above, a bit more fine tuning and replacing my dodgy hot glue bedding will be in order at some stage.

Adjustment screws and hex key sizes needed.

Nice going. Will be interesting to see the groupings once you get a handle on the lighter trigger.

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Hi Team, I removed the lawyer ledge & lowered the brass preload plug to get what I thought was a reasonable trigger. Was fooling myself a bit there, figured I wasn’t getting sufficient trigger travel, nothing past release.
Back into the trigger & mostly with a small chisel created some space for the golden trigger to move into.
I’m no expert but it feels damn good to me.
No need for the Jard.

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